Ruric-Amari home » Belly Dance Costumes » Details » Self-Binding
Kentucky Belly Dance home » Belly Dance Costumes » Details » Self-Binding

Self-Binding, or, the Turn of the Cloth

The binding produced by the self-binding process is not necessarily as precise as the normal bias-binding. But for costume pieces which are already being lined, a self-binding produces a fast, good looking edge and without the hassle of clipping and trimming. Because of the minimal handling and because the bias and grain in both the lining and the panel fabrics are running the same way, twisting-panel-syndrom is minimized.

Binding also makes a garment shape stand out. Remember how you would draw borders around an object before coloring it in with crayons? Same reason. Bindings are the crayon borders of the costume world, and provide a lot of visual pizzazz for much less time and cost than many other ornamental techniques. You can create variations of texture and color at the edges of your garment as part of the process of putting in the lining. Very very nice.

So, how does the phrase "Turn of the Cloth" apply to this self-binding process? Well, "Turn of the Cloth" is the phrase tailors use to remind us that cloth DOES have a thickness and sometimes this thickness needs to be taken into account. For instance: I recommend adding 3/4" to the edge of every seam that you will self-bind, and then I recommend that your seam allowance be 1/3", and then I recommend you trim the seam allowance if necessary. Where is all this extra cloth going? It is being used up by the Turn of the Cloths; in this case the raw seam and the fold of the lining on the front edge, and the width of the thick belt fabric as the lining travels up and over to the back.

Because of the importance of the pressing steps, you will need to use lining/binding fabric that DOES press flat, which usually means natural fibers. If you want to use a synthetic, make sure you CAN press a seam flat and what heat setting you need to use (too high a temperature can melt / scorch fabric).

Very important that garment and lining both be cut on the same grain.

Sewing:

1. 3/4" for each edge you want to self-bind.
2. Stitch with the fashion fabric on top.
3. Sew each parallel edge in the same direction, if possible: toe to head, then toe to head up the other side. This uses the grain's tendency to move slightly in the same direction as the presser foot is pushing it
4. The above two rules are to help prevent the panels from twisting.
5. Top-stitch all by stitching in the ditch (if at all possible).

Refining and Troubleshooting

Turn to right side and smooth.

The goal: correct the look of the self-binding if necessary.

If you are making a self-binding version, what you want to see when you turn the belt right side out is a completely flat body with the lining going up, around and behind the front to create a pseudo-binding.

1. If there is still a bubble down the middle of the lining back, your seam allowances are too narrow. Turn the belt inside out again and make one of the seams a little bit wider. Careful: 1/8" increase in a seam width will take up almost 1/3" of lining. Turn right side out. Repeat if necessary.
2. If the lining is cupping, your seam allowance is too wide. Turn the belt inside out and trim a seam closer IF possible. Careful: 1/8" reduction in a seam width will free almost 1/3" of lining. Turn right side out. Repeat if necessary.
3. If you cannot trim the seam enough to eliminate cupping, then remove the stitching at the top edge, press, trim the belt body at the top edge and sew together again. Careful: 1/8" reduction in a seam width will release almost 1/3" of lining. Turn right side out. Repeat if necessary.

Belt Ties

See Ties for self-bound tie refinements.

Panel Ends

• Straight ends:
  1. Self-bind the long sides
  2. Turn, refine, press.
  3. Fold and press the binding over the short side and top-stitch it.
  4. Proceed as above.
• Curved and round ends: Recommend you gather the short round ends of the lining, then stitch to the panel as per usual.
  Stitching:
  1. Your lining pattern, per the Panels page, should be 3/4" larger on all edges that will be bound, including the tip.
  2. Place a gathering stitch (basting stitch) along the curved end, 3/8" from the edge.
  3. Pin the straight sides together.
  4. Pin the center of the curved edge together at the mid-point.
  5. Pulling gently on one side of the basting stitch, make one half of the curved lining fit one half of the panel curve. Wrap the end around a pin to secure it.
  6. Repeat on the other side.
  7. Distribute the gathers carefully. Move the gathers away from the straight side towards the curved middle, like a ballet slipper.
  8. Stitch with the narrow toe of the presser foot on the seam allowance around the curve, 1/4" from the edge.
  9. Stitch each long side starting from the stitching at the curve.
  10. Turn right-side out.
  11. Procede to Refining step. Your goal is a binding with a smooth outline; you will not be able to eliminate the gathers, but you will be able to press them and top-stitch them flatter. The smooth outline is the important part. Like a ballet slipper gathered around the toe, all that will be noticed by the audience is the resulting curved outline.

Many-Colored-Land is maintained by MauraZebra @ gmail.com
Pictures and text ©2010 by Maura Enright